Return from New York
My oldest brother used to live in New York, and during my high school and college years I’d visit him perhaps once a year. I’d stay with him for anywhere between one to five weeks at a time, and in doing so got a pretty solid feel for what life was like in the so-called Big Apple. He moved; until this month, except for a brief day trip last year, I’d not been back in several years. New York has changed substantially in my absence.
New York City in 2003 has become somewhat homogenized. It’s still New York, and it still has a lot of the mystique and character that has always made it special, but not as much as before. There is now a Starbucks on nearly every corner (some corners have four!), and all the suburban chains dominate the landscape. Taco Bell, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Olive Garden, Staples, and their ilk are omnipresent, just as in any other major city. It’s a shame. New York City always seemed so immune to that. Is it really true that all good things must come to an end?
An example? Grand Central Station– it’s now a mall. A real, honest-to-god, California-style, shopping mall with a Banana Republic and everything. Am I wrong to say that that is, well, wrong? And Times Square? Not that I necessarily miss the hookers that fondled me and and the crack dealers that solicited to me when I was 14, but maybe I’d be okay with at least a hobo or two. Am I really asking for too much from my Manhattan Experience?
Be forewarned– New York City is the capitol city of hype. With more than 8 million people there, not counting visitors, there is a built-in audience for anything. Restaurants especially don’t need to be good, they just need a gimmick or a moment of fame, after which people will flock to their doors, giving them the reputation of “best fill-in-the-blank” in the city. The Magnolia Bakery is the perfect example. They sell a very average cupcake and no one cared about them; they were mentioned on Sex in the City and the line has been out the door ever since.
Even restaurants that aren’t given shout-outs by celebrities can thrive here, regardless of quality. In other cities, there are more restaurants and storefronts than there are customers to fill them, and competition is fierce. In Manhattan it is exactly the opposite: demand exceeds supply by a vast margin. Manhattan may be the only place on the world where the quality of the product is immaterial– an establishment can draw people simply by existing. Having cleared that up, allow me to tell you about some of the places we ate, shopped, and saw while on our trip.
The Corner Bistro (331 W. 4th @ Jane) Some say it’s the best burger in New York, maybe it is, maybe not. It is a pretty good burger, and if they used a better cut of meat it would be excellent. The menu is limited to hamburger, cheeseburger, chicken sandwich, and french fries, so vegetarians be forewarned.
Lombardi’s Pizza (32 Spring Street) Pretty darn yummy pizza, on par with Arinell Pizza here in Berkeley. Done in a coal oven, for what that’s worth.
Katz’s Delicatessen (205 East Houston Street) It’s been around since 1888, it’s where Meg Ryan faked her orgasm in When Harry Met Sally, and it’s an authentically Jewish New York style deli. I loved the sandwich I ate there, although the meat-to-bread ratio is a bit skewed in the favor of the meat.
Magnolia Bakery (401 Bleecker Street) Average baked goods, average cupcakes, long line. You can get as good or better fare at any bakery.
Hungarian Pastry Shop (111th and Amsterdam) Apparently famous, pretty good pastries and coffee, somewhat crowded, with a pleasant atmosphere. I went there twice, as it was a convenient spot for breakfast, being literally around the corner from where I stayed. It is reported to be in an upcoming film called “P.S.” so the crowds may grow.
Pastis (Little West 12th @ Ninth Avenue) A little tricky to find. It is in the attractively-named Meat Packing District, and it’s worth hunting down. It’s a great French bar/cafe/restaurant. I had steak tartare and it was perfect. I also had a steak sandwich…also superb. Go there!
Teany (Not Sure) I didn’t go, but I was told it was fun. Moby’s tea shoppe, or some such thing. I doubt he is there waiting on tables, but hey, it’s supposed to be neat anyway. You go and tell me.
Soup Kitchen International (259-A West 55th Street) Another place I didn’t go, but worth mentioning. This is the famous “Soup Nazi” of Seinfeld fame. Which reminds me:
Tom’s Restaurant (112th and Broadway) I ate there because it’s the closest diner to where I stayed, but as I mentioned in a prior post, it is the Seinfeld Diner, as well as the Suzanne Vega diner. The food is decent, and it’s open late, but not worth going out of your way to visit, unless you want to go because of its fame.
Catherine Memmi (45 Greene Street) neat modern furniture
J. Lindeberg (126 Spring Street) Clothing from Stockholm that is over-priced but sleek-looking. Were I a person who shopped, I might shop here.
Jonathan Adler (465 Broome Street) Nothing too crazy, but cute stuff.
Colony Music Center (1619 Broadway) One of my regular NY haunts. This is a great music store, with a selection that includes all sorts of new music, as well as possibly the world’s best (not kidding) selection of karaoke CD-G discs. I found my friend and future band-mate Tracy a karaoke version of a song she’d been seeking forever. PLUS…they sell a huge assortment of incredible vintage stuff. Old music and TV trading cards, memorabilia, and more stuff then I can describe. It’s like going to a museum of pop culture where you can buy the exhibits. I strongly suggest visiting this store.
Tutu (55 Spring Street) One of many cute boutiques along this street, but one worth peeking into.
Prada (Prince & Broadway) The architecture and design inside is breathtaking. There is no sign outside, so you just kind of have to know it’s the Prada store. If you like stylized architecture, this store is worth hunting down, though you have to tolerate the shoppers who are actually there to buy Prada items.
wow….nice tour guide
Yesl, the Prada store is awasome, the architect is Rem Koolhaas, he’s one of my favorite architect…..his work are hella cool
It is sad that NYC couldn’t just stay cool. I despise the way everything eventually seems to lose its character. Society changes in the same manner that a great work of art erodes; the original beauty is lost. The thing that emerges from the dissipation is not always bad, but it does always lack the original allure.
Apart from that, you seem to have had a good time!! I’m glad. Smile!
Oh totally forgot to tell you to check out the Lozoo Restaurant on West Houston, too, there are some pretty neat architectural details there, the following link is a pix of the Bar, look the stoops can slide from side to side, and see the table on the right, there is a hole in the middle of the where they put a candle in it, then the entire edge of the table glows….
http://www.ltlwork.net/lozoo4.html
I can’t wait till my turn to go to places….chicago is definitely worth going: the first city in America to have skyscrapers.
Some people blame Guiliani for the homogenization of New York. Do you think that’s true? I mean, he did really crack down hard on crime. Do you think it’s possible any more to have a safe city that’s also diverse and a constant revelation? I think you’d have to outlaw Starbucks first of all.
Wow you’re ny expert! =)
theres a lot of cute little mom n pops restaurants all over alphabet city and cute boutiques by independent designers in NoLIta that I think you would enjoy. maybe you can check them out next time you’re here avoiding all the commercialized touristy areas.
Wonderful….I can use these suggestions on my upcoming trip…=)
Interesting site!
GOOD advice!! =) i will be definitely writing some of those names down. well, good thing im used to the commercialization of malls in cali. hah.
I want to go to New York now after reading your blog… :D
post some more pics from NY.
hahaha… i just happened to be in new york this past week too!! I went to pastis… such a good place to eat. umm.
#1 – your Xanga is grt! The NY edition of entries is so entertaining!
#2 – your points are well noted & being taken into heavy consideration. You’re right, but it doesn’t stop me from seeing NY’s grass as supremely greener. I love change.
#3 – NY is a fashion, business & ethnic powerhouse. There’s so much history & life there a person just can’t find here. The feeling of being there is just so diff than SF.
#4 – Winters are cold, summers are hot. But ppl still do it & enjoy tasty lobster & authentic Shanghainese food while enduring the extreme climate.
#5 – I <3 NY (but I love SF too).
(BTW - impressive use of space in your pix! I need the zebra chair too, to go with my emu footstool.)
magnolia is definitely overrated..places in california have already far exceeded their quality
@BuDgEt VaN LiNeS, At first glance I thought yours a comment from a spammer, but you got past the captcha AND your comment is relevant to the post, so I guess you are real? Where in California can one get a fabulous cupcake?
sprinkles!…but it’s a bit pricey..
@BuDgEt VaN LiNeS, I will seek it out. Have you eaten a cupcake from Cup Kate’s Cupcake Truck?